Leaving behind the warm embrace of the once three-breasted Goddess Meenakshi in Madurai, it’s time to disco in the verdant hills of nearby Kodaikanal. Madurai’s jasmine scented streets and fragrant Meenakshi Temple have provided compelling memories for generations of residents and visitors, both domestic and foreign. But now the legendary heat of a southern summer is on, and one must simply run away to fragrant hillslopes of this lovely southern hill station.
Blessed with scenic views, a clean and crisp mountain air and wooded hill slopes dotted with cool glades and waterbodies, it was an ideal spot for a bunch of colonial-era British civil servants and American missionaries, to develop it into a sanatorium for their ailing white brothers, and sisters, from the plains. It was also the perfect retreat from the boiling heat of the plains.


Its engaging persona has helped shorten its ponderous name to an affectionate ‘Kodai’. And so, ‘Kodai’ it is, to most people. Some even just call it ‘Kody’. Take your pick. The 120-km drive from Madurai provides a pretty overture for the things that await you at this year-round destination. From its vantage point in the Palani Hills at 7,200 feet Kodai offers mesmerizing panoramas of its emerald, green surrounds. The vivid sunrises and sunsets you’ll get to enjoy from various places around the hill town are truly awesome.
Its cool and health-giving environs have given rise to a scattering of academic institutions, with the Kodaikanal International School leading the way as one of the most high-end schools in the country.
At the heart of this pretty town lies the serene lake, not very imaginatively named ‘Kodaikanal Lake’. But that doesn’t take away from the immense pleasures it provides. From boating and rowing to lakeside picnics and dazzling scenic changes, the lake is just so lovely. You can opt for an exhilarating horse ride around the lake. Kids love this.


For a more private lakeside experience, get a permit from the Forest Department to visit Berijam Lake, 21km away. The drive to the lake is a treat in itself. Animal sightings make it an even more rewarding experience.
And then there are Kodai’s gorgeous jungles to explore. The leeches are in hibernation, so this is the best time to be out and about for short hikes and long treks, listening to the songs of the birds and balmy breezes.
Popular walking trails slice through the hills. The Kodaikanal Pine Forest nature walk is a lovely experience. The 1-km long paved pathway, known as Coaker’s Walk, opens up on panoramic views and on clear days even throws up vignettes in the distance of the Dolphin's Nose rock and the town of Periyakulam town. Enjoy avail of close-up views from the telescopes scattered along this pathway. Somewhere along the way a bright spark discovered what is known as the "Brocken Spectre" here. What this means is, that in a unique spot on the walk your shadow falls on the clouds below, surrounded by a rainbow-like halo.


Originally known as the Devil's Kitchen, the Guna Caves, located in the Shola forests near Moer Point, is a popular trekking experience for young adults and mature trekkers. Summer is a good time to survey the area around these mysterious caves which houses a spooky colony of bats; entry is restricted for reasons of safety. Not recommended during the monsoons. A short drive away are the Pillar Rocks. A lofty 400 feet high, these three humongous granite boulders are barely visible for the thick mist which enshrouds them almost all year round. Guided tours are best as entry is permitted between 9 am and 4 pm, including Sundays. Again, not recommended during the monsoons.
A family soft trekking adventure can be enjoyed on the 3-km long trail to the rocky environs of Dolphin’s Nose. Leave after an early breakfast to avoid the afternoon sun.
Kodai is a paradise of botanical wealth, and you can savour the beautiful plenitude of its orchids and rhododendrons growing in the wild. The flower-bedecked bungalows from the colonial era too are a lovely sight to behold.
For birdwatching enthusiasts rewarding avian adventures await in the shola forests, by the lake, the gardens and hedgerows. This is home to endemic species like the Nilgiri Wood Pigeon, Jerdon's Laughing Thrush, White-bellied Blue-Robin and Nilgiri Flycatcher. For sightings of waterfowl and grassland birds. Head for the serene, uncrowded open expanses around Mannavanur Lake. The Gundar Zero Point 4-hr hike is one of the most popular amongst birders for sightings of the white-bellied blue robin and the bushy Malabar Giant Squirrel. The trail begins from the forest check post and slips through Shola vegetation. April to August, and again from October to March, is the best time to get prize avian sightings.


Hire a bike and go trundling through the hills with a packed lunch for a leisurely time at the Silver Cascade waterfalls.
In the merry month of May Bryant's Park, skirting Kodai Lake, becomes the cynosure of all eyes for its superb 9-day annual Kodaikanal Flower Show. Held in the Rose Garden the vibrant showcase of thousands of stunning flowers in bloom and arty floral installments, unique floral sculptures, vegetable carvings etc, offers numerous insta and selfie moments. The flower show is a part of the dazzling Kodaikanal Summer Festival. The 20.5 acre-botanical garden was planned and built by English forest officer H.D. Bryant in 1900. The two camphor trees here were imported from China. The silver maple was imported from Japan.
An unmissable treat for stargazers is the unpolluted skies of Kodai. You might also pop into the Kodaikanal Observatory, set up as a Solar Physics Observatory in 1899. It also houses the Astronomy Museum. From April 1st to June 15th Kodaikanal Observatory is open to the public between 10:00 to 12:00 hrs and 14:00 to 16:00 hrs. During the rest of the year it is open to the public on Fridays between 10:00 to 12:00 hrs.
In town, enjoy a homemade hot chocolate. You can even pick up this famous Kodai beverage from a street vendor. Stock up on organic coffee, homemade chocolates, jams, and spices. The aromatic eucalyptus oil is another good buy. The blue gum or eucalyptus globulus from Australia and Tasmania, was introduced to the Palani Hills in 1843 by Major JM Partridge who served in the Indian army.
Discovering Kodaikanal is not all about pretty lakes, forests and iconic landmarks. The layered environmental history of this gorgeous hill town certainly encourages you to make several repeat visits.