While a Christmas in Goa, driven by its Portuguese heritage and rich colonial hype, has long been a favourite of both locals and travellers, there’s no denying the magical splendour of a Christmassy Kolkata.

Kolkata’s colourful Durga Puja festivities have long been deeply embedded in its ethos; yet one must not forget the city’s deep, almost 200-year-old connection with England and the very English nuances that are interwoven into its Anglo-Indian heritage.

Christmas in Kolkata is a joyful, vibrant, dizzy whirlwind of parties and prayers, carol singing and feasting and carousing with friends and family. A wondrous time for gifting and healing broken ties with even the grouchiest Scrooges in one’s life.

The heart of this action-packed festival is the Anglo-Indian hub of Bow Barracks, the yesteryear military neighbourhood of the colonists. Jump right into the most authentic, irrepressible atmospherics of Christmas in Kolkata. The red brick houses are ablaze with lights and buntings and favourite Christmas carols and hymns stream out in the night air from hidden speakers.  Village mela-style merry-go-rounds and vendors hawking Father Christmas masks do brisk business; kids with squeals of delight drag reluctant moms and dads from one stop to another.

Well ahead of Christmas it gears up for its annual festivities by stocking up on bells and baubles, and Christmas trees (to replace the shabby one in the garage) and neon strobe lights at New Market or Free School Street. It's time to grab the fattest turkey for a nice slow roast that an old aunt is famous for. And of course, mum’s boozy Plum Cake, already reeling about in the dish, thanks to a good soaking in rum with candied peels and dried fruits and spices for days. For the lazy one’s there’s always New Market’s Jewish bakery, Nahoums’ classic Christmas cakes to the rescue. Saldanha, founded by Goan couple Ignatius and Ubelina Saldanha in 1930 is also great for its Christmas fruit cakes.

Burua Bakery at Bow Barracks does brisk business throughout the festivities. It’s a great time to sample homemade wine and cakes at the food stalls set up by the locals. From dancing on the street to competitive events to choral fantasies Bow Barracks rises from its slumber to embrace a frenetic energy that catches all age groups late into the night. The arrival of the Santas with their goodies sends the crowd into unabashed mayhem as everyone tries to grab the free gifts.

The iconic Park Street with its glitzy cafes becomes a magical wonderland of fairy lights, Christmas trees, and glitter with tinsel and buntings; and stalls piled up with aromatic offerings and gifts become a huge draw. Families gather in great throngs to wine and dine in the cafes and bars and favourite hubs like Peter Cat and Mocambo, to cheer on the Christmas spirit.

At the intersection between Park Street and Camac Street the giant Christmas Tree at Allen Park holds pride of place entangled amidst the crowds that mill around in a frenzy of festivities. Officially, the Christmas Festival here kicks off 18th December and carries on to the 23rd. Allen Park pulls out all the stops to revv up the carnival-like air with open air concerts, choirs aplenty, carol singing sessions, live music, and foodie allurements. In 2024 they had the likes of Remo Fernandes and The Microwave Papadums setting the stage on fire!

Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve at St Paul’s Cathedral has special moments and memories for all who enter this sacred space.

The racy air and festive vibe of Kolkata ahead of Christmas to the New Year is an unmissable experience to collect wonderful memories of Kolkata’s Raj era heritage. Do plan a visit around this time when the city urges you to let your hair down and forget your sorrows as you party all night long.