The balmy autumn breezes and colours of Fall, are a magnet for visitors who love to travel around India’s Himalayan enclaves. Located in the Eastern Himalaya, Darjeeling holds a steadfast place in the hearts of those who have immersed themselves in its heart-stopping natural environs and the intimate engagements with its history and heritage

The remnants of its colonial trappings are still intrinsic to the charm and nostalgia with which the hill town of Darjeeling is imbued. Even first timers cannot but give in to the allure of the many adventures known, and to be known, that it offers travellers of all age groups.

A chance discovery of a beautiful, small scrap of land in the Himalayan foothills led to the establishment of a sanatorium for recuperating British soldiers and officers and their families. That’s how Darjeeling started out, before it transformed into a full-blown summer retreat for the British administration through the hot summer months of its capital city Calcutta.

An exploration of several Raj-era architectural gems, scattered across town, can be quite an eye-opener about Darjeeling’s dazzling history and heritage in colonial times. A nice way to go about this to sign up for a guided Heritage Walk. Some key points steeped in Raj nostalgia are the Planters Club, now a small hotel, Raj Bhavan of Governor’s House, Happy Valley Tea Estate, St. Andrew's Church from 1843, St. Joseph’s School, North Point from 1888, the Clock Tower and Town Hall dating to 1850, Glenary’s, Keventers and several others.

Do stop by at the heritage curio shop which goes by the name of Habib Mallick and Sons. You can pick up masks, hats, jewellery, metal decorative items etc; of note are items crafted by local artisans.

Its Raj-era connection has also been revived not just by its buildings, but also by the lovely stema-run toy train or The Darjeeling Himalayan Railways (DHR), now an acclaimed UNESCO World Heritage entity. The mass of tea gardens are a lively reminder of how the British established around these hills to develop some of the world’s most renowned teas.

An inspiration for writers, painters, and poets from the Raj era, Tiger Hill's sunrise viewings are certainly an intrinsic part of the 'Darjeeling Experience'. Catching your first sunrise over the world’s third highest peak, Mt Khangchendzonga, offers another memorable high in this lovely hill town. 

You need to haul yourself out of bed well before dawn to beat the crowds to Tiger Hill, about 11km away, where the spectacle of the mighty snow peaks—Janu (25,300 ft); Kabru (24,015 ft); Khangchendzonga (28,156 ft); and Pandim (22,017 ft),  bathed in the golden hues of a rising sun will blow you away.

Poet Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, who visited the nearby village of Mongpu at least four times between 1938 and 1940, wasn’t lucky enough to see the grand spectacle himself. However,  his nephew Gajendranath Tagore, did a painting which has  quite beautifully captured a pre-dawn landscape, apparently overlooking Senchal Lake in the sanctuary at Tiger Hill, just before the sun peeps over surrounding snowy peaks.

An unmissable experience is a ride on the famous toy train set up by the British in 1888. The rail journey starts out from the verdant plains of the Dooars to India’s highest railway station, Ghoom (2258 m)–the junction between Lopchu, Sonada, Siliguri and Kurseong spread across the Darjeeling hills. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railways (DHR), which was accorded the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, passes through some of the most stunning expanses of the Eastern Himalayas. The dinky steam locomotive traverses a distance of about 88km of hill country. Merrily riding the steely narrow gauge track it crosses 13 stations, many bridges and tunnels, and lots of switchbacks and loops, while throwing up scenic vignettes of tiny villages and shops, tea gardens and farm holdings, along the way. Its stellar navigation of this steep terrain will show you what an incredible feat of engineering went into its making.

You’ll find quite fun to watch how, because the pace of the train is quite slow, locals are adept at hopping off and hopping on in the towns its crosses; they pick up school returning kids, a tumbler of tea and snacks and even fresh fruits and vegetable from the vendors in the narrow street of the bazaar through which the gleaming track snakes alongside. Keep your camera at the ready as it approaches the iconic Batasia Loop, 5km away from Darjeeling, where it takes a complete 360 degree turn for the excruciating haul up to Ghoom station.

Atmospheric Staycation

Set in the heart of Darjeeling, but in a very quiet spot leading to the iconic Mall Road, The Elgin, Darjeeling - Heritage Resort & Spa is the perfect base to explore the beauty of the spectacular mountain ranges and pine forests.

A beautiful property—quietly luxurious, serene and seductive for its old-world charm and elegance, The Elgin, Darjeeling is helmed by the soft-spoken Brij Raj Oberoi— popularly known as ‘Diamond’; this abiding nickname was given him by no less a personage than his uncle, world-renowned hotelier M.S.Oberoi. Diamond’s mom and M.S’ wife were sisters.

The Elgin, Darjeeling - Heritage Resort & Spa was founded in the Maharajah of Cooch Behar’s English, Manor House-styled summer retreat. The property itself dates back to 1887. Originally Diamond’s father had rented it from the Maharajah for a while, and in 1965 bought it off from him.

The cozy Victorian-era ambience has given The Elgin its own special mojo. Even when Diamond was toying with the idea of modernizing it in 1976, it was received with horror by no less a guest than Wangchuk Namgyal, the Crown Prince of Sikkim, who urged him never to do it.

Harkening to this astute feedback, Diamond has, overtime created a clutch of hotels, branded as heritage properties, under the umbrella of The Elgin chai; these are scattered in the Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Gangtok and Pelling in Sikkim and the old Raj bastion of Kolkata.

All of these are remarked for their signature ambience, quiet luxury, elegant interiors along with a warm and personalized impeccable service. Contemporary technology has blended with these intrinsic components to create an experience that is both warm and intimate.

The Elgin, Darjeeling - Heritage Resort & Spa has been beautifully restored to its original grandeur; snug and cozy its interiors are decked with etchings of G.Douglas, lithographs of Daniell, period Burma teak furniture, oak floor boards and panelling, lovely fireplaces, candle-lit tables and strains of music from the grand piano.

Amongst its many patrons, down the years, have been the likes of the Crown Prince of Sikkim, the Dalai Lama, Hollywood actor Richard Gere, PM Modi, Rahul Gandhi, the royal family of Bhutan, the US Ambassador Galbraith and writers such as Dominique Lapierre and Mark Tully and musician A.R. Rahman.

A warm and elegant vibe

The Elgin greets you with a warm glow in the sparkle of cherry liquor and a silken khada, draped around your neck as a part of its traditional North-Eastern welcome.

Featuring Victorian-style decor, teak wood floors and fireplaces, The Elgin’s formal rooms feature free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs and minibars, plus tea and coffeemakers. The lovely suites come with living rooms.

Food and entertainment

The Orchid Dining Room, with its wood panelling, chandeliers and lithographs add to its old-world elegance and charm. On offer is a selection of European and Asian set menus. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner it serves up delicious Indian, Continental, Italian and regional fare.

Enjoy a traditional Victorian-style, Elgin Afternoon Tea with homemade sandwiches, cakes and cookies or scones, brownies and short breads— while soaking in the beauty of the mountains.

In the evening guests are greeted by both men and women dressed in traditional Nepalese attire for some light entertainment. The musicians take you through a musical journey of Darjeeling with a commentary describing the importance of each rendering. Guests are encouraged to participate in the dances with the artists helping them with the steps. The service team is also dressed in traditional colonial attire of the British Raj.

The Spa offers a ‘menu’ of relaxing and reviving massages and beauty treatments. Aromatherapy and Swedish, along with Indian Head and Shoulder Massage and Facials. The therapy room is a perfect place to kick back and unwind after a long, but rewarding day exploring the hills.

The Elgin is also an inspirational venue for board meetings and small conferences.

To make the very best of your sojourn in Darjeeling— and a truly memorable one, book ahead for The Elgin, which has a steady flow of loyal guests through all seasons.

If you here around December-January be prepared for those spectacular, crystal-clear views of the Khanchenzonga range, from many spots around town. In fact, this is considered the best time for such memorable viewings.

If you plan to visiting pretty little Kalimpong, which is quite close to Darj, you should stay at the lovely 25-key The Elgin Silver Oaks, which was originally the private home of a jute magnate. 

In Gangtok (Sikkim) you can stay at the Elgin Nor-Khill which once served as the royal guest house of the King of Sikkim in 1976. The turnaround of the rather run-down property (when it went into government hands), was quite miraculous.

Travelling back to Kolkata you can stay at the restored The Elgin Fairlawn which the Elgin group acquired in 2018 from Jennifer Ann Fowler. The property dates back to 1783.

In 2021 The Elgin, Darjeeling was awarded the status of “The Best Performing Star Hotel” by the Himalayan Hospitality & Tourism Development Network and India Tourism Kolkata. In the same year The Elgin Silver Oaks, Kalimpong was awarded the prestigious “Travellers’ Choice 2021” status by TripAdvisor. The Elgin Fairlawn, Kolkata was bestowed the prestigious “Travellers’ Choice 2021” by TripAdvisor. The Elgin Nor-Khill, Gangtok was awarded the “Travellers’ Choice 2021” status by TripAdvisor.