Ever thought of Uttar Pradesh being blessed with a mini-Silk Route?
Let’s tell you all about this unique experience for shopaholics in the cities of AGRA, LUCKNOW and VARANASI which make up Uttar Pradesh’s Heritage Arc.
The trio was, for centuries, a bustling trade and commercial hub, driven by the needs of the Mughal and the Nawabs and further fortified by commonplace goods catering to the local populace. From rich textiles to horses, from jewels to rich carpets, the markets would be a vibrant hub as caravans from Central Asia and Afghanistan unloaded their wide array of offerings- both for vanity and the mundane. They would return home laden with Indian cotton, gold and silver ornaments, beads and brocades, silks and satins.
Agra
The patronage of the Mughals has left a rich and enduring artisanal legacy in Agra, Emperor Babur’s bastion in India. Pietra dura or marble inlay work of the highest order, a rich and fabulous showcase in the iconic Taj Mahal and the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah, is still alive in the karkhanas in the city. Visit the artisans at work and take home a slice of Mughal artisanal splendour captured in those beautifully handcrafted souvenirs. Carved relief work and calligraphy had a rich calling fuelled by the architectural marvels established by the Mughals. Do explore the bazaars for these beautiful works of artisanal beauty. Gorgeous tapestries and brocade work catered to the royal house. Pick up exquisite zari-worked stoles and skirts at Kinari Bazaar. The Taj in miniature mode, crafted in marble or soapstone, caters to every pocket in the shops in the Tajganj area, Sadar Bazaar, Munro Road, Gwalior Road, and Pratap Pura. Agra’s zardozi work is of exquisite beauty. Inspired by Turko-Afghan renditions, it is held in high regard and worth every penny. Be prepared to spend a sizable amount for the genuine article!
Carpet and durree makers flocked to the city to pump commissions from the royals, nobility and other elites in the Mughal era. Today the city has a well-oiled carpet weaving industry. Leather works too flourished apace. You can pick up shoes and sandals, boots, bags and belts and leather jackets of high quality. Head out for the nearby town of Firozabad (40km), famous for bangle making, chandeliers, and glassware for holding all kinds of beverages; the detour is really worth your while and good value for money. Again, this city has a long and storied narrative, being around from Vedic times while catering to the Mauryas, Guptas, Indo-Scythians, Kushans and Rajputs as Chandwar Nagar. Emperor Akbar gave it a new lease of life as Firozabad.
Lucknow
Did you know that under the Nawabs of Awadh horses from Persia were a big business at both Lucknow and Faizabad? The caravans would return home richly rewarded for their pains, as they loaded up on silks and metalworks, ornaments and textiles et al.
The ostentatious and exotic lifestyle of the nawabs of Awadh has been beautifully documented in their artisanal legacy, for which Lucknow is renowned worldwide. You can’t leave Lucknow without picking up its, cobweb-fragile chikankari embroidered kurtas, sarees and even curtains, bedcovers, tea cosies and placemats. This dying embroidery craft, which reached its zenith under Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, was revived and revitalized by SEWA, Lucknow’s women-centric NGO.
Chowk, Hazratganj and Aminabad are your go-to spots for some good retail therapy. Shops here cater to every budget. Ittars, species, textiles and made-ups are high on a shoppers list. Unmissable buys are Lucknow's famous silver jhumkas and chappals. The bidri (damascene) work comes here both in black and white, replicated beautifully in vases, ashtrays and other decorative items. Nakkhas, the Sunday bazaar and city’s oldest market, is good for a treasure hunt for all kinds of allurements— varied and inexpensive. Check out the great offerings at the annual Lucknow Mahotsav.
Varanasi
Banaras as it was known back in the day, had a strong and abiding reputation for its bead making in the international trade markets for centuries. People tend to forget this when they are swamped by narratives of its superb silks and brocade, the biggest allurements for the Mughal and Nawabi era. Delhi and Lucknow just couldn’t get enough of these exquisite crafts. Cotton of the highest quality was a big trade item as well in Varanasi.
While gorging on the superb street snacks, washed clean, inevitably by the famous Benarasi paan, roam the gullies and kuchas of the bazaars for lovely sarees, stoles and brocades, for which it is justly beloved. Minakari work has enriched Varanasi’s jewellery traditions endlessly. Unlike Jaipur, which is famous for its red mina work, Varanasi’s forte is pink mina. Thatheri Bazar, City Chowk, Vishwanath Gali and Godaulia are great to explore.
If carpets are your thing, the Varanasi-Mirzapur-Bhadohi belt has been doing brisk business since the days of Mughal Emperor Akbar. A short detour to the ‘Perfume Capital of India’— Kannauj offers a winsome experience of India’s ittar-making traditions since the 6th century. Favourite fragrances are rose, jasmine, sandalwood and mitti - which captures the essence of the scent of the first raindrops kissing the thirsty earth after a long hot summer!
Uttar Pradesh’s Heritage Arc offers a seamless experience of retail therapy of the highest order. Shopaholics rejoice!