Shake off the shackles of stress and distress as the festive season in India hits the high notes. You can literally get high on sea, sand and sunshine in Goa, with some generous helpings of the much beloved local brew, Feni.
And that’s just for starters on this leisurely break from your everyday rhythms and routines at home and work.
Your fun filled dining and wining adventure doesn’t stop in this gorgeous seaside holiday hub. With a bit of judicious planning, you can head further south to India’s famous wine-producing region, spread around the sleepy environs of Nashik.
So, Goa first! This lovely spot, which straddles the shorelines of the Arabian Sea along peninsular India’s western coastal belt is much loved for its stunning beaches, sunny climes and hospitable people. And what fun it is to break down the social barriers with the locals, and others from the global travelling community, over tumblers of Feni. Pair this native brew with poi, the classic Goan bread, some fish fry or other seafood of choice and you’ll get as local as it gets. If your mid-morning Feni break overlaps with lunch, sample it with chicken xacuti, a palate tingling spicy chicken curry which is the perfect companion for Feni.
Grab this opportunity to get to know more about this iconic Goan beverage, guzzled by locals and tourists alike with much delight. This heady heritage beverage even has a GI Tag now.
Did you know that it was the Portuguese who gave us the inspiration to produce Feni? It all began when they arrived as traders and hung around for four centuries as conquerors! It was their introduction of their native tree nut "Cashew", known as the ‘wondernut’ of the world, which took to the soil of coastal India like ducks to water that took us on this long and boozy journey down the decades. These cashew nut (Anacardium occidentale) trees came by way of Goa’s Portuguese settlement between 1560 and 1565.
Bestir yourself and wend your way to Cazulo Fazenda located in the picturesque village of Cansaulim. This is the very heart of the premium family-owned Feni brand known as Cazulo Feni. It is the only Feni cellar in Goa, and you should spend some thrilling hours learning all about the mysterious transformation from kernel to a prized liquor with the brewing skills of its workers. Thanks to their expertise in Feni making Goan’s can abandon themselves to the unfiltered pleasures of three exotic expressions produced at Cazulo Fazenda; these are – Cashew, Palm, and Dukshiri–all of which marry very well with local and foreign dishes.
A guided walk-through from the cashew orchard and the traditional distillery, ends with a delight-giving tasting session and a meal outdoors. You will also love this opportunity to sample two of their several rare traditional expressions from their Feni vault, which stocks treasured flavours such as Cardamom, Cumin, and Orange.
Getting your first look at the cashew nuts hanging on to the trees, opens up a whole new narrative of Feni making. The kidney-shaped nut appears to be clinging tightly, (like a koala bear to his mum) to the underbelly of the cashew apple which looks like a fruit but is actually the enlarged stem of the cashew tree.
Bet you didn’t know either that cashew nuts would be sun-dried, drum-roasted, oil bath- roasted and steamed for different end results? The key to drawing out a range of pleasure-giving treasures from this exotic nut lies in the processing itself.
Traditionally de-seeded cashew apples used to be dropped into a basin-shaped crushing area known as ‘colmi’. The stomping of the cashews helped release the juice, pretty much like what one does with grapes for wine-making! The stomping process has gotten a trifle more sophisticated by being replaced by a press known as ‘pinjre’ or cage.
Were you aware that it was actually India, and not Portugal which first sent out cashew kernels to global markets— and, it was India also which pioneered cashew processing as an industry? It’s a lovely story to share when you are hanging out by the beach with fellow travellers and friends over the next tumbler of Feni.
Next up is Mumbai, further north on your trails to Nashik. You can chill in the glittering environs of this megacity exploring the offerings of several microbreweries which have cropped up over the years. A leading brewery in Mumbai is Effingut Colaba, a minute’s walk from the Gateway of India, with a tempting selection of craft beers, with over 12 styles on tap. What’s lovely is that the brewpub also serves amazing food that perfectly complements their brews. Their Sunday brunches have become a runaway success. You can also check out Gateway Brewing Co., amongst the first of Mumbai’s microbreweries. Patrons swear by their White Zen, a Belgian-style wheat beer, or Doppelgänger – a strong Doppelbock.
And on to Nashik - Not many travellers are aware that Maharashtra’s Nashik-Pune region is blessed with idyllic conditions for wine making. The vineyards around Nashik, now recognized as India’s wine capital, veer off in three directions: the Gangapur Lake and Dam region (15 km); Sanjegaon district (30km) and Dindori district (25km ). Given the time you have you could choose to travel to all three regions, or pick one for an exceptional experience.
The Sula Vineyards, overlooking the Gangapur Lake, with its vineyard, a wine factory, restaurants, and gardens, is a popular choice amongst visitors. It was set up by Indian wine-making pioneer Rajeev Samant, and his partner from California, Kerry Damskey, in 1996. Since its inception Sula has left its footprint in the international market with its Red, White, Rose, Sparkling and Dessert wines
The grape- to- glass odyssey keeps its Tasting Rooms, abrim with visitors who have signed up for the guided tour. Unravel the intriguing winemaking processes which include all stages— from planting, to the making of the wine and then the storage in ideal conditions so the wine doesn’t go off. The fun is also in the wine tasting led by Sula’s resident sommeliers and winemakers. Enjoy the niceties of wine tasting which involve five steps: Colour, Swirl, Smell, Taste and Savour. The fun-filled experience of barefoot grape stomping in a wooden barrel is permitted to visitors also in February-March. You should definitely make time for a yummy lunch organized here with the perfect pairings of the Sula wines. To further enhance your experience amongst the vineyards you might like to stay at either of their two resorts— Beyond by Sula' and Source at Sula.
In the high season Sula’s gets quite busy so you might like to look at some other options such as: Soma Vine Village run by Pradeep Pachpatil , who was formerly at Sula. This is India’s first vineyard resort. The boutique winery was set up in Village Gangavarhe on the Gangapur-Gangavarhe Road. The 25-acre vineyard offers five varieties of wine —Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Shiraz, Cabernet and Zinfande and conducts expert-led masterclasses in wine making. York Winery also located in the area, was established by Nashik-based entrepreneur Lilo Gurnani in 2006. Cuvee, India's first sparkling wine is made here from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes. Enjoy tastings here also of their Chenin Blanc and the Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz Viognier, and Rose wines.
In the Sanjegaon district you can explore the offerings of Grover Zampa Vineyards, originally set up in 1988 by businessman Kanwal Grover at Doddaballapur near Bangalore. It’s now India’s second-largest winemaker with wineries and vineyards in both Nashik and Bangalore. Grover Zampa’s flagship La Reserve Shiraz-Cabernet blend is India’s first reserve wine. Also worthy of note are their Soiree Brut, the Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz Rose, Chenin Blanc, and Cabernet Shiraz.
Today most wineries now offer stay options so when you hit the wine trails you might want to spend a night or two in the Nashik region, India’s premier lovely wine country— while enjoying the charms of Feni in Goa, and signature craft beers in Mumbai.